Free pattern – mini rib and cable sock

This is the baby-scale version of the men’s sock pattern which I put up here a few weeks back. I bought 2 skeins of the Uncommon Thread Tough Sock for the full size pattern and had enough left over to knit these little guys plus a baby hat to match! I’ve only gotten one sock finished, but I’ve weighed the rest of the yarn and I’ll be fine. In fact I’ve got so much left that I think I should’ve made the socks a little longer in the leg.

The hat pattern is from Debbie Bliss’ book Ultimate Baby knits, which I’ve used extensively. I would thoroughly recommend it to anyone, but especially those in their late 20’s with a lot of heterosexual female friends – trust me, they’ll drop like flies and every pattern in here is an absolute gem. Buy yourself a job lot of baby cashmerino in grey and prepare for the onslaught.

These socks are carbon copies of the grown up ones, but at approximately half the scale. The proportion of the heel turn and gusset have been tweaked a little for a chubby baby foot, and the lengths of leg and foot are much smaller than 50%, but the look is an adorable mini-me of the original.

 

Mini Mens Rib and Cable Sock:

Abbreviations:

sl:            slip

psso:      pass the slipped stitch over

ssk:         slip one stitch, slip the next stitch, the two slipped stitches together

k2tog:    knit two together

 

Left sock:

Cuff:

Cast on 42sts using the long tail method. 2.5mm needles.

Knit in 1×1 rib for 10 rows.

 

Leg:

Round 1: K5, p1, (k3, p1) x9.

r2:            (K2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, k1, p1, (k3, p1) to end.

r3:            as round 1

r4:            K1, (k2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, p1, (k3, p1) to end.

Rounds 1-4 form the stitch repeat for the travelling stitch detail.

Repeat rounds 1-4 twice more.

 

Heel flap:

K5, p1, k1, (sl 1 st with yarn in back, k1) x10, k1, turn.

Sl 1^st st, p20, turn.

These 21 stitches form heel flap.

Right side row: (sl 1 st with yarn in back, k1) to last st, k1.

Wrong side row: sl 1 st, p to end.

Repeat these two rows until heel flap measures 6.5cm.

 

Turning the heel:

Row 1:     Knit 13sts, ssk, k1, turn.

r2:            Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.

r3:            Slip 1, knit to one stitch before gap (the slipped stitch from previous row), ssk to close gap, k1, turn.

r4:            Slip 1, purl to one stitch before gap (the slipped stitch from previous row), p2tog to close gap, p1 turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked. (13sts)

 

Gusset:

Knit 13sts of heel, pick up and knit 11sts along the left side of heel flap, k21sts of instep (keeping rib and travelling stitch pattern repeat), pick up and knit 11sts along left side of heel flap (56sts)

Place the marker here for the start of the round.

Round 1: K22, k2tog, k1, (p1, k3) x3, p1, (K2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, k1, p1, k1, sl1 k1 psso, k9

r2:            k24, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k5, p1, k11

r3:            k21, k2tog, k1, (p1, k3) x3, p1, K1, (k2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, p1, k1, sl1 k1 psso, k8

r4:             k23, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k5, p1, k10

r5:            K20, k2tog, k1, (p1, k3) x3, p1, (K2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, k1, p1, k1, sl1 k1 psso, k7

r6:            k22, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k5 p1, k9

Continue decreasing in this way, decreasing 1 stitch at each side of the gusset on every other row, until 42 stitches remain.

 

Foot:

Continue working these 42 stitches, keeping rib and travelling stitch pattern correct, until the measurement from the back of the heel is 8cm (or 2.5cm less than the length of the foot of the intended wearer).

 

Toe shaping:

Using 2 stitch markers split the sock into two halves, 21sts between markers.

r1:            knit along sole to 2sts from marker, k2tog, (pass marker), sl1 k1 psso, knit along instep to 2sts from marker, k2tog, (pass marker), sl1 k1 psso, k to end of round.

r2:            knit all sts

These 2 rounds form decreasing pattern, repeat until 15sts remain between markers, 30sts total. Ending on round 1.

Next round, as round 1.

Repeat round 1, decreasing every round, until there are only 7sts between markers, 14sts total.

 

Graft toes closed using Kitchener stitch.

 

Right sock:

Cast on and knit cuff as left sock

 

Leg:

Round 1: (k3, p1) x9, K5, p1

r2:            (k3, p1) to last 6sts, (k2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, k1, p1.

r3:            as round 1

r4:            (k3, p1) to last 6 sts, k1, (k2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, p1.

Rounds 1-4 form the stitch repeat for the travelling stitch detail.

Repeat rounds 1-4 twice more.

 

Heel flap:

(K3, p1) x3, k1, (sl 1 st with yarn in back, k1) x10, k1, turn.

Sl 1^st st, p20, turn.

These 21 stitches form heel flap.

Right side row: (sl 1 st with yarn in back, k1) to last st, k1.

Wrong side row: sl 1 st, p to end.

Repeat these two rows until heel flap measures 6.5cm.

 

Turning the heel:

Row 1:    Knit 13sts, ssk, k1, turn.

r2:           Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.

r3:           Slip 1, knit to one stitch before gap (the slipped stitch from previous row), ssk to close gap, k1, turn.

r4:           Slip 1, purl to one stitch before gap (the slipped stitch from previous row), p2tog to close gap, p1 turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked. (13sts)

 

Gusset:

Knit 13sts of heel, pick up and knit 11sts along the left side of heel flap, k21sts of instep (keeping rib and travelling stitch pattern repeat), pick up and knit 11sts along left side of heel flap (56sts)

Place the marker here for the start of the round.

Round 1: k22, k2tog, k1, p1, k5, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k1, sl1 k1 psso, k9

r2:            k24, p1, k1, (k2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k11

r3:            k21, k2tog, k1, p1, k5, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k1, sl1 k1 psso, k8

r4:            k23, p1, (k2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, k1, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k10

r5:            k20, k2tog, k1, p1, k5, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k1, sl1 k1 psso, k7

r6:            k22, p1, k1, (k2tog and k into 1^st st again before slipping both off needle) x2, (p1, k3) x3, p1, k9

Continue decreasing in this way, decreasing 1 stitch at each side of the gusset on every other round, until 42 stitches remain.

 

Foot:

Continue working these 42 stitches, keeping rib and travelling stitch pattern correct, until the measurement from the back of the heel is 8cm (or 2.5cm less than the length of the foot of the intended wearer).

 

Toe shaping:

Using 2 stitch markers split the sock into two halves, 21sts between markers.

r1:            knit along sole to 2sts from marker, k2tog, (pass marker), sl1 k1 psso, knit along instep to 2sts from marker, k2tog, (pass marker), sl1 k1 psso, k to end of round.

r2:            knit all sts

These 2 rounds form decreasing pattern, repeat until 15sts remain between markers, 30sts total. Ending on round 1.

Next round, as round 1.

Repeat round 1, decreasing every round, until there are only 7sts between markers, 14sts total.

 

Graft toes closed using Kitchener stitch.

Stuff to do and a desk to do it at.

My table is clear and usable for the first time in MONTHS! I am sitting at my computer like a civilised human, not scrunched over it on my lap like the last picture in a comedy ‘evolution of man’ illustration. Lucy moved in with me nearly a month ago :D and although the co-habiting is lovely, my tiny flat has had an onslaught of possessions that has been tricky to work through. But last night the in-laws came for a celebratory housewarming paella so we really had to get a grip and make the place nice. The evening was lovely and they brought us many delightful gifts (including a drill set which we are crazy excited about) but the best part for me is probably the re-discovery of my dining table and today’s prospect of a whole day to work at it! I am starting with a breakfast of some toast made from the roasted garlic loaf I made yesterday and writing this little update. I’m keen to get the sewing machine out and make more cushions. I have a heap of unloved knitwear brought home from work. I have sold some cushions from the Etsy shop! Admittedly, only to my adorable friend Pete, but a sale is a sale. Plus I’ve had some interest from my Lucy’s parents who would consider selling some in their fancy interiors store, so I should really up my game for them and make a few with proper labels and fastenings. I’m thinking it would be good to embroider labels with ‘Milkbottle’ and some fabric/care info, I just need to find the best way to do that quickly and simply. Embroidery-wise I’m pushing to get this guy finished: The cross-stitch of Raven Rouge at the Art Macabre death drawing session from ages ago. The lovely lady who is the subject of this picture has shown an interest in having it when it’s done, so that’s giving me the incentive I needed to actually crack on! I’d also like to get the girls-in-knickers embroideries framed up today. I’ve acquired two vintage hoops (thanks to a recent bout of ebay addiction) which I think will be perfect. I’ll put these up for sale too, although I’ve no idea how much for yet. And I signed up for the certificate course at the Royal School of Needlework! I’m so excited. I’ll be starting Jacobean Crewelwork at the end of June. Going to have a nice day out to Hatfield House to get some Jacobean inspiration. The assessment criteria are pretty strict on this module, holding me very close to a traditional tree of life design. No room for naughtiness. Not that Jacobean is the most inspiring medium for subversive subject matter. It’s the silk shading module that is most tempting – I desperately want to stitch pubic hair while everyone else is doing kittens and pansies. Lucy’s Christmas jumper is coming on nicely: I’m up to the fair-isle section on the front now. Those two massive balls of yarn which I got at Ally Pally last year are stretching really far. Once I’ve finished both the body panels I’ll weigh the green again and split what’s left into two balls, and that will pretty much dictate the design of the sleeve. Lots of green will mean the possibility of more detailed fair isle and a shorter white section at the top, only a little will mean a short green cuff with a simple design to transfer to the white. It’s fun to make this up as I go along! Just need to make sure that the angle at the top of the sleeve runs smoothly into the shoulder and we’ll be golden :) And just for a little dose of cuteness I’ve been making these baby socks too: Sometime I feel super frustrated with myself for mot getting much done, but actually when I look at things laid out like this I am pretty happy with what I manage to do. If only I didn’t have to go to work!